Signs you need this fixed
- Bowl wobbles when you sit down
- Ceiling below the tub has a brown halo
- Shower lurches between scald and chill
- Cistern hisses and tops itself up overnight
Why faucets drip
Older two-handle faucets close against a rubber washer that hardens and cracks with age. Single-handle and newer faucets use a cartridge or a ceramic disc. Both wear, and hard water speeds it up by leaving scale on sealing surfaces. A drip from the spout is almost always the inner seal. Water around the base of the handle points to an O-ring. A leak under the sink can be the supply lines or the faucet body itself.
Cartridge and washer repair
- Shut both stops beneath the basin, then open the faucet to bleed off pressure.
- Cover the drain opening so tiny screws do not vanish.
- Remove the handle; screws often hide under a decorative cap.
- Pull the cartridge or stem, noting its orientation.
- Take it to the store to match it, or call us with the make.
- Replace washers, O-rings or the whole cartridge, then reassemble.
Choosing a replacement
When parts are no longer sold, or the body is corroded, replacement is the sensible choice. Count the holes in your sink or counter before buying: one, two, three or four. Choose a faucet with a ceramic cartridge for long life, and favour brands whose parts are easy to find in Canada. Kitchen faucets with pull-down spouts are popular; check that the hose and counterweight will fit around a disposal or a deep sink.
Shut-off valves under the sink
Every sink should have two working shut-off valves. Old multi-turn valves often seize or drip once they are finally turned. We replace them with quarter-turn ball valves during any faucet job, and swap rubber supply lines for braided stainless steel. It is a small cost that makes the next emergency much easier.
What is included on the visit
Tools on the truck
- Stem and seat kit for older compression valves
- Torpedo level and shims for setting bowls
- Closet auger and new wax or foam rings
What we open
Supply stops, the escutcheon trim or the toilet flange
How we test it
Run every fixture hot and cold, then a dye test on the tank
How the job runs
Ring the line
Say what is dripping, backing up or banging. Water still flowing? We guide your hand to the valve first.
Find the cause
The plumber traces the fault, with a scope or gauge where one earns its keep.
Pick the fix
Options come in everyday language, and nothing starts until you choose.
Repair & prove it
We finish, run the water to prove it, wipe up and leave a short written record.
Calls we field, answered plainly
My new tap runs weakly. What happened?
Debris from the pipes often lodges in the aerator after installation. Unscrew and rinse it.
Is a dripping hot tap worse?
Yes. You are paying to heat the water that goes down the drain as well as for the water itself.