Signs you need this fixed
- Brown ring spreading on a ceiling
- Grey, soft pipe entering at the meter
- Hiss inside a wall at night
- Sputtering taps after a cold snap
Shutting off fast
Close the main shut-off valve where the water service enters your basement. Where the split sits on a line that has a dedicated valve, closing just that one lets every other tap keep running. Next, shut down the water heater, open a basement tap to empty the lines, and switch off breakers feeding anything near the wet area. Photograph the damage. Then call.
Why pipes burst
- Freezing. Water expands as it turns to ice. Trapped between ice and a shut faucet, the water has nowhere to go, so the pipe tears, usually in an exterior wall or a cold crawlspace.
- Corrosion. Galvanized steel rusts from inside. Copper can develop pinholes, especially where water is aggressive or velocity is high.
- High pressure. A failed regulator or water hammer can stress joints until one gives.
- Physical damage. A nail through drywall, a shifting foundation or a renovation accident.
Repair methods
We open the wall or ceiling only as much as needed to find sound pipe on both sides of the break. On copper, the split piece is cut away and a new length is joined with solder or press couplings. PEX can be spliced with crimp or expansion fittings. On old galvanized pipe, a burst usually means the rest of the run is close behind; we will tell you if patching is just buying a few months. Before we close up, the system goes back under pressure and every joint is checked.
Preventing a repeat
Find out why it burst. If it froze, insulate the pipe, seal air leaks, or reroute it inside the warm envelope of the house. If corrosion caused it, think about replacing the whole run. Check that your pressure is under 80 psi, the common maximum; a gauge on an outside tap shows it. And learn where your shut-off is, today, before you need it.
What is included on the visit
Tools on the truck
- Pipe cutters, torch and lead-free solder
- Moisture meter and thermal camera
- Crimp and press tools for PEX and copper
What we open
Drywall at the leak line, the access panel or the meter shut-off
How we test it
Static pressure test and a dry-paper check on every new joint
How the job runs
Ring the line
Say what is dripping, backing up or banging. Water still flowing? We guide your hand to the valve first.
Find the cause
The plumber traces the fault, with a scope or gauge where one earns its keep.
Pick the fix
Options come in everyday language, and nothing starts until you choose.
Repair & prove it
We finish, run the water to prove it, wipe up and leave a short written record.
Calls we field, answered plainly
Is a burst pipe covered by insurance?
Sudden bursts are usually covered under Ontario home policies, but damage from long-term leaks often is not. Check your policy.
Can I use a clamp until a plumber arrives?
A repair clamp can stop a small split temporarily. Keep the main shut off until a proper repair is made.